Monday 16 January 2006

Cornwall.

Padstow – Port Isaac – Trebetherick – Trebartha

I’ve searched the maps and written up our route so we are off for a day of discovery. By-pass Plymouth then through Saltash, Liskeard, Bodmin, Wadebridge, St. Issey and we’re in Padstow. We were just going to have a quick look at Padstow but fell in love with and ended up spending a couple of hours wandering around. The fishing boats you see in the first photo are all floating quite happily because they are sealed into a great big Lock… we haven’t seen anything like this before… on the other side of the Lock are more boats but they’re sitting on sandy mud and the tide has gone out and left only puddles! We wander around the narrow streets of Padstow once again patting ourselves on our backs for not touring in summer, there are few people about but we imagine the place must be packed on a hot sunny day.



We visit Rick Stein’s Patisserie for a Coffee and Diet Coke and are sorely tempted by enormous Meringues, huge Nougat slices and lots of other wonderfully delicious looking tarts and cakes but we are saving ourselves… we did buy a couple of goodies for Tom and Emma though… next we find Rick Stein’s Deli and wish we lived near by and could stock up on fresh meat, cheeses and fish but only buy a loaf of Sour Dough bread to go with our Scotch Broth soup tonight! Rick Stein’s Fish and Chip Shop is where we are headed and why we are saving ourselves… Monkfish is something I’ve heard Rick Stein rave about so I can’t go past the grilled Monkfish with salad and chips, which was absolutely delicious; David chose the Battered Hake which he says was just as good.
Rick Steins Restaurant.

Port Isaac is next on our agenda, this is where they film ‘Doc Martin’ but it’s started to rain, road works are in progress and the road in to the harbour is very narrow… a long walk seems the only option but we decide to give it a miss because we don’t want to miss seeing a couple of places that Rodd’s came from so we head off to Trebetherick to find the St Endoc Church which we are told had something to do with Rodd’s… it’s the most amazing Church we have ever seen, in the middle of a Golf Course and deep in the ground it had to be dug out of the sand in the 1860’s but we see no sign anywhere of Rodd’s, I must check with Phyllis. John Betjeman the Poet Laureate and Rail enthusiast is buried here.




Now we are looking for the Village of Trebartha. About 200 years ago my Rodd ancestors lived here before settling in Sydney in 1820, we wind along deep cut very narrow roads that make us feel as if we’re in tunnels because there is no view on either side of us… meeting a car coming the other way is fun!!! NOT!!! We were so close on one occasion… inching our way along when the driver of the oncoming car had to put his hand out of his window and gently moved my wing mirror so his didn’t hit ours… the light is fading and we’re lost, right near some no longer used gates, to a large estate and the sign posts pointing to Trebartha have given up so taking a left seemed the only option and the next sign we see is ‘Trebartha Farm’, David jumps out of the car and goes in to ask if they have ever heard of any Rodd’s! The friendly farmer is well informed about the Rodd’s that used to live at Trebartha, which wasn’t a Village but a large house and estate stretching from as far West as Jamaica Inn near Bolventor on the Bodmin Moor to North Hill where Trebartha House was. What is left of the estate is now owned and worked by the Latham’s. The Army requisitioned Trebartha House during World War II and at the end of the war instead of repairing the house they dynamited it, many nearby farmers used the stone to build fences around their land. Dad has a book called ‘Trebartha, the house by the Stream’ I will read it more closely when we get home.

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